Angus Grill Brazilian Steakhouse is a carnivore’s paradise: Houston

By steak Monday August 24, 2009

CHRON.com By ALISON COOK August 12, 2009

“The salad bar is for suckers,” teased my friend Misha as I trawled the buffet at Angus Grill Brazilian Steakhouse, tonging up fat spears of asparagus and the likeliest looking marinated shiitake caps.

“At least that’s what my Brazilian friend at works says,” he amended. I continued to ignore him, casing the noontime display in search of — there! — skinny little haricots verts, cooked al dente; rounds of grilled summer squash and zucchini; and tiny teardrop tomatoes tossed with chunks of cucumber.

I knew I had to have some of the unassuming potato salad, too, because it reminded me so much of my mom’s. After several visits to this cordial, low-key churrascaria, I had my drill down, the key to enjoying an all-you-can eat repast of rodizio-style meats. I knew exactly what the house goodies were and how to stock my plate before the resident faux-gauchos showed up at the table, bearing dramatic swordfuls of skewered meats.

The rotisserie-grilled meats really are the deal at the Angus Grill (they’re my favorites of any local churrascaría, including the much pricier Fogo de Chão), but it’s also the homey accessories that make this cordial, low-key restaurant my current rodizio spot of choice. I love the molten little cheese popovers they serve, and the small rice fritters that taste like some exotic species of hush puppy.