Superb cuisine at J&G Steakhouse

By steak Thursday August 20, 2009

WASHINGTONTIMES.com By Corinna Lothar August 12, 2009

Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the Alsatian-born chef who became a star in the New York culinary firmament, is performing now at J&G Steakhouse in the old Hotel Washington, newly transformed into the W Hotel at 15th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue Northwest. He lives up to his reputation.

The food at J&G is superb. Since Mr. Vongerichten supervises an empire of more than 20 restaurants and is often elsewhere, he has installed Philippe Reininger as executive chef.

The new W lobby and almost-but-not-quite loud music overwhelm the old hotel. The J&G restaurant, on the other hand, is elegant in beige, black and deep red. Dark wooden tables are nicely spaced; the ceiling is high above large windows overlooking Pennsylvania Avenue; the service could not be better. The only drawback is the loud techno music, ill-fitted to the space and the food that cries at least for a little Sinatra, strings and brass, playing softly in the background.