LATIMES.com Scott Joseph March 23, 2008
In its short life span of less than a year and a half, Spice Modern Steakhouse has grown into a three-location mini chain. Two of those locations are more prime than the meats: the original on Winter Park’s Park Avenue, which is slowly regaining its title as one of the area’s best dining destinations; and the newest on Lake Eola, amid the downtown dining district, which could have a greater role in the revitalization of downtown Orlando than Church Street, often touted as the last great hope.
The other location is in Lake Mary, in a spot that has already been home to two other restaurants in just a few years. There’s nothing wrong with that location, but if I had a hankering for a meal at Spice Modern, I think I’d head to one of the other two.
The problem with the Lake Eola Spice Modern is that there isn’t a whole lot to crave other than the location. The quality of the food is spotty, courses arrive ill-timed, and the restaurant is staffed by young people who are untrained, indifferent, and at times, downright surly.
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